The Ironic Mullet :: Lee Ann Westover

Montana & Yellowstone: Lamar Valley and Mommoth Hot Springs

<----Lamar Valley Bison

This has been an epic summer. The Biddies have been playing a lot around the country, so in between our trips (NC, MT, NJ, PA) I've been able to sneak in a handful of retreats. I spent a week with my family in Florida, an week in the Blue Ridge Mountains near Boone NC, a week with more family in Durango CO, and now I am bout to head to Maine with a pair of good friends. We'll be gone for 10 days all in all. I am hoping with all my heart that there will be no cell phone service...lol*

THIRD IN A SERIES

Elk bounded out into the road - don't go too fast! ----->

After our Beer and BBQ stop in Cooke City near Silver Gate, we and our excitement bundled  into the rented Toyota Matrix (I <3 that car) and meandered through the checkpoint - hearts in throats. No matter what anyone tells you, there is no way to really prepare oneself for the abundance of fauna that wanders the Lamar Vally. Dubbed the Serengeti of the Americas, the Valley is one of the first areas of the park to melt after Wyoming's long winter. As a result, herds of Bison wander the flat valley floor, enjoying the spring sin and balmy breezes. Not only were we treated to some scarily up-close visits with a million Bison, we also saw Elk, pronghorn antelope and mule deer. Farther into the valley, we came upon a pack of fanatics with cameras and long-range scopes. Many of them were happy to share a look-see with a couple of tenderfeet like us. High up on a hill we saw a pair of wolf cubs rolling around outside their den, as a coyote trekked across a flat parcel of land nearby.

<-----El Hotel

Often, we had the chance to stand by the road for ten minutes at a time before another car came by. In early spring, all the kids are in school still, so the tour buses and minivans have yet to clog Yellowstone's narrow arteries. In fact, this early in the season, only the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins and the Old Faithful Inn were open for business.  That morning in Billings, we had been able to reserve a cabin for two at Mammoth Hot Springs for a scant $116. I know that $116 is not "scant" by every definition, but I was prepared to be quoted something in the high $200s...so we were happy to spend about half that.

I totally took my lil bear soap to go!------>

After a long afternoon spotting wildlife in the Lamar Valley, we were good and tired by the time we rolled under the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel's awning. Mammoth Hot Springs began as HQ for the U.S. Cavalry, so the hotel is just the beginning of the complex. Right in front of the restaurant, the Parade Ground used to play host to troops of military men practicing in formation. No most evenings, you can see herds of Buffalo or Elk idly chewing away the hours in the neatly mown grass. Across the Parade Ground sits a smattering of turn-of-the-century red brick buildings that now house park operations.

As with every hotel in the park, the main dining room is situated just a step or two down the road. Inside, we treated ourselves to some delicious Bison Steaks and wine at reasonable prices. (entrees $18-27). As we ate, we watched the animals in the parade ground, and mourned a day when the entire +continent was as think with wildlife as this plot.

After dinner, we had hoped to go hear one of the nightly talks in the main building's map room, but instead decided that a pair of beers and our sheets were loudly hollering our names.

<-----Dear-zies!

POSSIBLY A DEAL BREAKER FOR SOME OF YOU, BUT HEAVEN TO ME: none of the park lodgings have cell phone service, internet access or television!

Although Xanterra - a hotel-operating company - runs all the facilities, they may do so on the condition that they do not offer any of these modern conveniences. As a park employee so elegantly put it, the Park Service wants you out enjoying the wild, not watching it on a screen.

That night, we passed out far too early after dinner and beer, so muh man found himself awake at 5:30 am. Before the sun peeked over the mountains, he walked out to fetch a free cup of coffee from the dining room. A herd of elk were grazing all around the cabin in the dawn light.

I'd even give up a new episode of Mad Men for that...

Next up: Mammoth Hot Springs to Old Faithful Inn - a scalding death awaits.

* "Lol" is so far out of fashion, i think it's coming in again.

Montana & Yellowstone: How on earth do we get there?

The Lascivious Biddies just got back off the road from Montana and Colorado. At the end of the Montana trip, muh man came to meet me. From there, the tour turned into an amazing adventure through Big Sky Country and Yellowstone National Park. :: Part 2 of a series

After our steak dinner, there wasn't anything left to do with the day but somehow find our way back to downtown Billings and fall immediately asleep.

Though the Crowne Plaza had offered us a fantastic rate for the next night, muh man, Deidre (who was around for one more night) and I preferred the variety pack. We moved a few blocks away to the Dude Rancher Lodge.

(-)  The King beds in the slightly-less-cheap rooms ($75) were awful - all dished in in the center.

(+)  What the Dude Rancher lacks in fancy, it makes up in kitsch. All the carpets are 'branded' with area ranch symbols, and I suspect the restaurant serves a northwestern version of Nature's Perfect Food. The rooms came with a coffee maker, to fill up the suppled extra large Dude Rancher logo mugs. The bathroom was upholstered (!!) in blue fabric and had a matching blue sink and counter. 

(=)  All in all, we thought "Feh...it's a cheap motel, and it's fine." We ended up returning, but opted for the standard two-bed room, instead. (Much bettah)

Dude Rancher Lodge: 415 North 29th Street Billings, MT 1-800-221-3302 info@duderancherlodge.com

The next morning, we creaked awake at an early hour to go meet Kevin at the Western Heritage Center. He had seen this article about The Biddies area concert and my familial Montana connection. Unlike so many might have, he went the extra step to call the Alberta Bair Theater and invite us by to have a look at some family artifacts! Half of my Great-Grandfather's propeller and some photos of his garage sat in a case in the main lobby. (Borrowed from the Montana Historical Society in Helena)

After the tour of artifacts, Kevin let us know that he used to be a Yellowstone guide, and that he (!!!omg!!!) had prepared a little map for us of what he considered to be some must-sees in the park! (!!!OMG!!! Yay!!) Much more to come on this next episode.

Getting to Yellowstone before June can be a bit of a challenge. As late as the end of May, a handful of important access roads remain covered with snow. Beartooth Pass, the most famous road into the north-eastern park entrance, was closed on this May 13th. Kevin let us know that, although Beartooth gets all the hype for being scary and gorgeous, the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway (picked up 15 miles north of Cody, WY) is no slouch. Where Beartooth is all sharp drop-offs and treacherous roads, the Chief Joseph road also has stunning views - and guardrails!!

(If you plan a trip, ask everyone you can think of which roads are closed and which are open. Had we not met Kevin, we would have had to do a lot more backtracking in our already limited time)

We ended up following his directions exactly. The drive down towards Cody was spectacular to a couple of flat-feet yankees like us. Snowy peaks melded into golden rolling hills and again into craggy red rocks. All along the way, mule deer, pronghorn antelope and elk roamed the valleys and grazed in the distance. Once on the Chief Joseph itself, the drama increased. We must have stopped every ten minutes to snap yet another magnificent view of god's country.

The last bastion of modernity before hitting Yellowstone's Northeastern Silver Gate is Cooke City, MT. In early May, the town is all but closed. The Bistro restaurant evidently opens when it feels like it in the off season - the permanent "closed sign" must be there to deter the few tourists like us. Kevin suggested we eat in Cooke City, so we chose the only remaining option - Bun's and Beds.

It so happened that Buns-n-Beds has a daily BBQ special to die for. Every day it's different, but on our May 13th, we were treated to a pork sandwich and potato salad. It wasn't totally cheap at $8.95, but it was BIG and it was GOOD. Definitely recommended.Buns and Beds: 201 Main Street, Cooke City, MT (406) 838-2030

Aside from the food-ness, we were treated to a neighborhood scene that doesn't really exist in the high season. A mixture of residents and hobbyist wildlife spotters were happy to chew the fat with a couple of mild-mannered strangers. Once again, Montana showed itself off as one of the most genuinely friendly places I have ever spent time in. A pair of sweet dogs circulated while making their best pitiful "I'm Hungry!" faces. A woman chatted with the owner about her little girls. A retired gal gave us tips on how to approach the people with the "scopes" who camped out all day spying on wolves and grizzlies. Buns n Beds s the Bomb.

After lunch, we filled up the tank ($4.00 a gallon! Eeek!) and bought a six pack of Dancing Trout beer for later.

Silver gate is the next destination, and our first stop inside the park! Stay tuned...

Montana & Yellowstone: Spring steaks in Big Sky Country

Like I said, The Lascivious Biddies just got back off the road from Montana and Colorado. At the end of the Montana trip, muh man came to meet me. From there, the tour turned into an amazing adventure through Big Sky Country and Yellowstone National Park.

Early spring in Montana is something to behold. Except for the higher reaches of the mountains, the snow has melted, and mid-afternoon is sunny and balmy. What rain there is seems to come in a rush, dump its baggage, and move on. Better still, the huge skyscape let's you see it coming in time to go have a coffee before you buy a new umbrella.

As soon as we heard that Montana was in the itinerary, the first thought that popped into my brain was "MUST EAT BEEF." I have experienced that, in general, the best beef eating is had where the cow has been killed out back. Omaha rules this school, Montana is a healthy tie.

People are often friendly in America's heartland, but Montana's denizens surprised us with their general geniality and deisre to help visitors to the town. Employees at the Crowne Plaza (who supply rooms on a regular basis to bands playing at the Alberta Bair Theater) were definitely of that ilk. One by one, the lobby employees gathered around to share with us their favorite spots for beef eating in the area. We reveived a few suggestions for local Billings establishments, but a woman in reception gave us the what we really wanted to know. She was, at the time, hightly pregnant - and everyone knows you must trust a pregnant woman when it comes to the food. She is a sensual creature who knows what she wants and how to get it. After letting us know about a local spot, she confided that there is a restaurant in Shepherd, MT that serves the best cuts of beef she has ever eaten. She's from Montana! She must be telling the truth!

Shepherd, MT and The Feedlot Steakhouse are located about a 30 minute drive from central Billings. Reaching the spot is no picnic due to winding country roads, but once arrived, you'll be happy you figured it out. The joint sits on a rolling hill, high above Billings Basin. On a Monday night, it was open until 9pm and was not at all crowded. Our jovial waitress, Debbie, helped talk us through the short list of local beers, and the various cuts and preparations available to us. In the end, muh man and I took the enormous (20-22 oz) t-bone for about $23, and Deidre (Biddies pianist who tagged along) took the 8oz filet for about $21.

Muh man slurped down three pints of a delicious local wheat beer while we ate. Our t-bones were salty and flavorful, no doubt still mooing and lumbering towards the light. D's filet took the blue ribbon, however. It was so perefctly tender and juicy she could cut it by just blowing on it. Slight exaggeration, but that's how it felt.

After the beef, we shockingly had room left for dessert. Really, I think we would've been fine abstaining, but Debbie said the magic words - "Turtle Cheesecake." All at once, our tummies shifted everything over to the side in preparation. We have no idea where the stuff came from, but it had the texture and flavor of Junior's famous cheesecake in Brooklyn - widely beleived to be the best in the world.

I don't have any complaints at all about this place, but I must warn the foodies out there. Don't head to Montana for mache and mesclun. For the most part, Billings is mushy (yummy) veggies and iceberg (yummy) lettuce territory. Just give yourselves over to american cuisine at it's most simple, unassuming and delicious. By that, I mean suck it up and order some extra ranch dressing.

PS: Don't forget to get directions back to the freeway, or you may be in for a week or two wandering the back country roads in vain...

Montana Aviator: Great Grandfather Bob Westover and Charles Lindbergh in Montana

In May 2008, my band The Lascivious Biddies will be heading out to play in Loveland, CO (near Denver), Helena and Billings, MT. To help with publicity, I typed up this article about my Great-Grandfather Bob Westover, and his barnstorming friendship with the legendary Charles Lindbergh in 1920s Billings. After we finally get there, look for some travel wisdom (and eats) from the area right here on The Tiny Guide!

***

BILLINGS AVIATION PIONEER REMEMBERS EARLY FLYING DAYS WITH C.A. LINDBERGH IN MONTANA

Issue 200, The Billings Gazette
Sunday, December 14, 1958 (!!!)

By Al Funderburke

Flying today is a far cry from the "seat of the pants" method of the past, according to one of the first pilots in the Billings area. Bob Westover, who first took up an Army surplus J I Standard in the early twenties, made the observation while visiting in Billings last week.

Great-Grandfather Bob, Great-Great Granfather "Pop" and Lindy!----->

According to the old timer, "We used to not have anything to fly by, except a compass that was not dependable. Now fliers use instruments and don't care if they ever see the ground."

Westover, who not operates and automobile agency and tune-up shop in Coeur D'Alene, Idaho, came to Billings in 1911 as one of the first garage mechanics in the area, but soon switched to flying. Following World War I, he bought two surplus Standards from the Army, and took to the air.

Learning to fly in the 20s was not the complicated business it is today, Westover observes. "We just got in those old planes and started flying just like you get in a car and learn to drive." With no licenses required, he was soon on is own as a pilot.

Lindy Made 'Chute Jumps
One of his first ventures was a barnstorming trip through Montana and Wyoming. Traveling with Charles Lindberg, of transoceanic flying fame. Westover gunned the fragile plane low over a small town. With the town residents gaping, Lindbergh would "bail out" by parachute. Westover would then land in a nearby field and wait for business. It soon came, with Lindbergh leading the curious townspeople to the field for a ride over town at $10 a head.

<---Great Grandad poring over his scrapbooks

Lindbergh had joined forces with Westover, working part time around airplanes, and the balance of time as an auto mechanic. Westover reminisces that the famous aviator, who won worldwide attention in 1927 with his history-making flight to Paris in the "Spirit of St. Louis," earned the money to pay for flying lessons by making the dangerous parachute jumps.

Built Landing Field
Following the Lindbergh episode, Westover took over the agency for Eagle Rock Planes for Montana and Wyoming. Lack of airports was a problem then, so Westover solved it in his own way. Using a 12-foot steel blade scraper, he cleared off a section of sagebrush to form a landing field. The field was located just west of Billings, near the present site of Mountview Cemetery.

In 1927 Westover expanded his flying business, taking the name of National Park Scenic Airways. Plans called for charter trips over Yellowstone Park, but fell through when the small single engine ships, equipped with a single magneto, proved unsafe for the rugged park country.

Operated Schools
Not to be stopped, Westover turned to operating flying schools, and one at a time had schools in Billings, Sheridan and Glendive, with a staff of six pilots.

Like a lot of other promising businesses, Westover's operation was hard hit by the depression. Passenger fares dropped from the usual $10 a head for a short flight, to one cent a pound. Westover was forced out of the flying business.

Although his flying days were over, Westover was soon called on to use his experience. After the outbreak of World War II he took the job of teaching crew chiefs about aircraft engines at Long Beach, Calif., helping the mechanics to make the transition from B17s to the later models coming out.

Today, the ex-flier has some strong feelings about flying. "There's no future in flying, for a young person," he claims, "The only future is with the airlines and there's too much competition. Pilots are a nickel a dozen."

And to back up his belief, he traveled to Laurel to visit his son, associated with the Yellowstone Bank, and plans to continue on to Florida to visit another son. His mode of travel – a small European car.