The Ironic Mullet :: Lee Ann Westover

This is why I love Italy!

Not for the pastries, not for the pasta, not for the slow-cooked offal...it's the politics, baby!

Porn-star in parliment?
             Check. Thats old news.

Anarchist in parliment?
            Sure! Sounds fun!

          Let's take it up a notch shall we?

A Fascist in charge of Rome!
                         Excellent!!!

Let's bring back Berlusconi!!
                   GENIUS!!!!!

See this post in Gawker, straight over from the BEEB:

In Italy, amusingly corrupt right-wing media mogul Silvio Berlusconi has just returned to his old position of Prime Minister, after a bitterly contested election that also put a straight-up fascist in charge of Rome. Berlusconi welcomed the country's rightward turn by invoking the name of Francisco Franco's Spanish fascist party. On the way out of power, the departing center-left government "published every Italian's declared earnings and tax contributions on the internet." They didn't even play it off as an accident, either: "The finance ministry described the move as a bid to improve transparency." Hah. Stay classy, Italy. We'd check to see what an Italian professional blogger makes, but we're kind of terrified of the whole country. [BBC]

Food in Rome, Italy! A Truly Tiny Guide for "Budget" Travelers - Download it!

DOWNLOAD A PRINTABLE .PDF FILE OF THIS GUIDE!

I always tend to put "budget" in quotes for a very good reason. I am not rich, so we're not talking about staying at expensive hotels or eating at expensive restaurants, but I am too much of a diva to share a room of bunk beds with a gaggle of college freshmen.

The Most Expensive place we ate:
Ristorante Tullio:
This place had been described as serving excellent Tuscan food, but I saw Roman food all around me and all over the menu. The rest of the clientèle was made up of finely tailored suits and Blackberrys...no joke! the crackberry is universal. I ate a stellar ossobucco (braised veal shank with a section of bone, complete with marrow and a lil spoon), broccoli rabe sauteed in garlic and olive oil (broccoletti aglio olio). The ragù (meat sauce) on fettucini is spectacular, as is the spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with buttah and clams). The clams were so tiny and fresh and tasted of the sea. Wonderful tiramisù. In Italian, this coffee-flavored dessert's name translates directly to pick-me-up...also can mean a quickie. You know what I mean by quickie. The final verdict? The food was quite good, but you'd be better off eating across the river for half the money and twice the personality. That said, white tablecloths are fun for a special occasion, and the house wine is killah.
Lunch for us three, 1/2 liter of wine, 2 pastas and a meat plate, dessert, greens on the side was €70 or so
Near Piazza Barberini. Via San Nicola da Tolentino, 26. (39) (06) 474 5560

Ahoy! the cheapies:

Ristorante Enoteca Corsi:
We popped in for lunch on the first day. The zuppa di pasta e ceci (soup with pasta and chickpeas) starter was savory and delicious, and miraculously didn't give me heinous gas. TMI? After that, I had an amazing piece of fresh cod that had been roasted with fresh parsley and other herbs. Potatoes were served along side. They were smuh-thered in buttah and infused with rosemary (rosmarino). Other plates at the table: Baccalà (saled cod roasted in tomato sauce - SO Roman) and veal steak cooked in white wine and buttah. As per usual, totally drinkable 1/2 liters of wine were a bargain. Clientèle was mostly local, with a smattering of polite, non-yelly tourists thrown in. Not bad!
Lunch for 3 Americans was less than €50.
Near the Pantheon. Via del Gesù 87, (39) (06) 679 0821

Forno Campo di Fiori:
I know this place is in a bunch of tourist books, but honestly I don't know how a passive, pasty fanny-packer could get a hold of any pizza in this elbow-to-elbow bakery. If you venture into the fray, make sure there is one. All the charm and flavor of this bakery is present at lunchtime, when Romans stand around outside shoving slices into their faces, and inside crows vie for their favorite. If it's not crowded, don't bother, as the pizza will be cold. Blech. Here's how to geterdone: just shove up to the tiny pizza counter as best you can. Find a nice balance between being polite and totally cutting. Order whatever is hot. Point at what you want. (Quel pezzo lì = that piece there!, mi basta = that's enough for me, va bene = that'll do) Go out to the piazza, sit on the edge of the fountain, holler "Get in mah belleh!" and eat. I ended up with zucchini flowers (fiori di zucca) and anchovies (alici).
Could be the best €2.50 I have ever spent.
Campo di Fiori 22

All the following are in Trastevere. We would go into town all day to tourist around, but come evening, we were tired and wanted to be near the hotel. Also, Trastevere can be much less expensive than the historic center. It's fast becoming a foodie haven in Rome.

BTW: If you sit at a table in any cafe, everything costs double. Notice the price lists!

Bar Er Trasteverino:
Great coffee near the Hotel Trastevere. Remember! If you care about local tradition, Italians only have milky coffee in the morning. Espresso shots are taken on the run all day long after that.
€1.60 at the bar for a cappuccino and a pasta (pastry. In this case, a croissant filled with heavy custard. omfg what a way to start the day.)
Bar San Francesco a Ripa 151

Bar San Calisto:
When my friend Big John walked into this place, he declared, "What is this, the pickpocket pub?" Rumor has it, Bar San Calisto hasn't changed their prices since they opened, as a result, you will see quite a colorful bunch at the counter. At aperitivo time (happy hour before dinner) or after you eat, sidle up to a communist or smelly painter for a glass of rotgut grappa or limoncello...for a pittance! I don't actually know how exactly much it cost, as I was already kinda drunk and my friend bought my drink. Everything is cheap. Sit at a table and listen to some Italian guy spout philosophy to a female American student, or just enjoy the people watching (Omg so worth the table prices).
Piazza San Calisto. Can't miss it. Follow the hammers and sickles.

Caffè di Marzio:
This bar/café on Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere doesn't have much to offer in terms of interior ambiance, but the tables outside have a lovely view of the church. The best reason to hit this place is the gelato (Italian ice cream. Better than ours by far. Except for Blue Bell). Here's the secret to finding good gelato: If the banana flavor is yellow, stay away. It's artificial. If it's gray, buy it all. The gray color comes from the natural bananas. My favorite is cocco (coconut). Even if you just go in and point at something random, I am sure it will be great. They also make a mean spritz. (pronounced spreets - aperitivo of white wine, soda and campari).
14 B Santa Maria in Trastevere

ChaKra Bar:
This is by far my favorite place to sit and share a bottle of wine. It's not particularly Roman in decor, but the vaguely Moroccan scheme is soothing after a day walking two and fro. They have amazing Barolos, Barbera d'Albas, and Amarones on the wine list. You'll also enjoy their cheap-n-delicious appetizers. My friend who lives in Rome said she'd heard about the place from her friends and it lived up to all reports. Two years ago Mary K and I spent every happy hour here - sacked out a table waiting for dinner time. We stayed too far out of town to have a nap in the afternoon. So sad for us.
Piazza San Ruffina 13

Enoteca Trastevere:
Enoteca Trastevere looks modern and lame from the outside, but inside it is so cozy and country! I love the teal painted shelves and rustic tables. The windows look out over Via della Lungaretta. Via della Lungaretta is a main thoroughfare to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, so people-watching is top-notch. When I went in about 6:30 pm, II sat near a table of local men having their evening tipple. At one point a tiny doggie came up and tried to bully me out of my snacks. This is life, happening. Yay! The enoteca also serves light meals, so feel free to linger and eat for reals. If you pop in for a drink before dinner, they will bring you a few yummy toasts of melty cheese for free! My cousin loved the Itlaian Chardonnay, so I got him the bottle! A scant €12. The sweet fella at the profumeria (perfume shop) up the street recommended it. Thank him for me!
Via della Lungaretta 86 (39) (06) 588 5659

Here's another hint:
While you are wandering around, should you spy a restaurant that is crowded to capacity with noisy, happy, fat people - stop in and make a reservation for tomorrow! Never eat at the empty place next door.

Make reservations for all the following places, and be aware they they each close on Sunday or Monday. Best to check when you reserve, as I suspect that the closing-day changes according to the whim of the staff.

Osteria le Mani in Pasta:
This unassuming little joint is one of a series of reasonable, delicious eating establishments spotted around the back streets of Trastevere. In the winter you can tell them by the artichokes on the menu - steamed, fried, whatever. This place is better branded than most, as the waiters sport cute little Osteria le Mani in Pasta polo shirts. The restaurant's name means "hands in the pasta." That's reason enough to eat there. Inside, the tables are scattered between a main floor, a basement, and a srange party-table-in-the-sky. I had the saltimbocca ("jumps in your mouth" - a veal steak  smothered in prosciutto, buttah and wine. Yet again, omfg! I think anything you broil under prosciutto (cured ham) is going to be the best item on the menu, but the rest of my party seemed happy with their pastas and greens. Cutest thing ever? We got  €1 off the check because I spoke some Italian...It was listed as "amica lingua!" (friend-language) Could you die???
Via dei Genovesi 37 (39) (06) 581 6017

Da Enzo:
I hesitate to even share this place with youse...but I will cuz I love you. This is my favorite place to eat in the whole city. Instead of carciofi alla romana (Roman artichokes - steamed and served under buttah-wine), Da Enzo fries the lil dudes. Service is fun and boisterous, and everything on the menu is pretty darn good - homestyle, simple, filling, tasty. It's the ambiance you will swoon over...after the dang artichokes. I also had a silky and delicate coda alla vaccinara (oxtail in 'mater sauce) and Fiori di Zucca (zucchini flowers stuffed with salted cod and cheese, then deep fried in batter. Erm.. HI!). While we were eating, a party of ten women sat down behind us. The waitress walked up and asked them "Ok, who doesn't want artichokes and zucchini flowers?" (in Italian). If that doesn't tell you anything, you are forbidden to make your own choices from here on out. Refer to me for everything.
Via dei Vascellari 29 (39) (06) 581 8355

Yeah...you know how in Italy you get your own pizza and don't have to share? Well here in Rome, they are Domino's-sized and come with ANYTHING YOU WANT. Canned tunea? K. Arugula and spicy saudsage? K. Best of all, dinner for five with wine will run you only about €45! It made my head explode.

Pizzeria San Calisto:
It's next door to Bar San Calisto and catty corner to Pizzeria Cave Canum (following). Reserve if you can, but I have had success just stopping by. There is a huge basement that is chock full of nuts...er...tables. According to my friend Drew, this place is more Roman than Cave Canum...meaning more chaotic, loud and fun. Oh yeah... the pizza is SO GREAT.

Pizzeria Cave Canum:
Across the piazza and like that what you read above...but a little stiffer...more "HELLO MADAM!"*

That's it for eating!
I'll continue to add as I go return.
Feel free to send me your adjustments! 
info [at] leeannwestover [dot] com

DOWNLOAD A PRINTABLE .PDF FILE OF THIS GUIDE!

* You know when you are minding your own damn business and someone is standing out side of a restaurant in a foreign country shouting at passers by in every language possible?

"HELLO MADAM!" ...nope no fanny pack..."BUENAS TARDES SENORA!"...nope no response yet.."BONSOIR!"

I so cannot deal with that. I know I am a tourist...d'ya HAVE to point it out to me? Is a nice "Buona sera!" too much to ask? They don't stand out front at Cave Canum, but they are heavy on the english-speaking front. Good for some, sad for others.  Pizza still rox.

Rome "Budget" Accomodations: Hotel Trastevere

First of all, let me say that when you go, trade your incisors for a chance to stay in Trastevere. Trastevere sits just across the river (walking distance!) to many of the historic sites in town and at the Vatican, but it is not so close that you can smell the other tourists' Pantene and Old Spice. Trastevere is an amazing place to be, and so fun to come home to in the evenings. Every corner or alleyway (vicolo) houses an enoteca (wine and snacks) or a bar (coffee and cocktails). The local osterie (family restaurants) are plentiful, cheap and delicious. If you find you have jet lag and can't sleep that first night, you'll find all manner of students or artists milling around the piazzas long into the wee hours.

View is from the back of the hotel, over the market square--->

After lots of research, we selected the "budget" Hotel Trastevere. (I say "budget" in quotes because I am po') I am about to do some griping, but keep reading, because even so, I would be thriilled to go back.

For €150 per night (Feb rates, regular rooms start at €80), we rented one of the hotel's three apartments. The whole affair is a three-story room, with two loft bedroom areas stacked on the main living space (and third sleeping area) In one corner is a modest kitchenette. The bathroom is up one flight of stairs.

Technically, the apartments each sleep 5, but would work much better sleeping two. Why, praytell? The bathroom sits RIGHT next to the second floor's twin bed. This was a bit of a problem, as the family members I was traveling with had to get up during the night to go potty. The floor squeaked, the door banged. Not so good. If we were a party of two, and no one had to a) sleep by the bathroom or b) make coffee while I was still sleeping, I would have noting negative to say.

Enough whining. On to the fun part!

The tall windows (with shutters for vampire mornings) featured a view of Piazza San Cosimato. In the piazza (m-Sat, 6:30am -1:30pm ), you'll find a small, bustling open air market full of seasonal, regional produce, kitchen knick-knacks and flowers. From my noisy second floor twin bed, I had an amazing view of it in the morning. Hard to beat.

A fridge! We had a fridge! Though last year, Mary K and I took to storing our cheese out on the windowsill (we traveled in winter then as well) having a fridge was very handy for storing our delicious snacks. That said, an icebox is not essential. Snacks in Rome pretty much beat snacks everywhere else - pizza, oranges, pizza, prosciutto, pizza, cheese. You can't find this stuff at all hours, though, so fridge = good.

BEWARE PRISSY PEOPLE: The apartment is a little shabby. Samantha Brown would not enjoy it. Justine or Megan from Globe Trekker would totally dig it. I personally couldn't give a crap about ugly coverlets or tape on the shower head. The room was clean and the staff was very, very helpful.

Don't bother with the breakfast in house. Up the block at Bar Er Trasteverino you can get a darn good cappuccino and a delicious custard-filled croissant for €1.60 (written €1,60 in Italy, fyi.)

Hotel Trastevere
Winter rates rock!
Via Luciano Manara 24a-25
00153 Rome
Tel: 039/06/58 14 713
Fax: 039/06/58 81 016
www.hoteltrastevere.net

Bar Er Trasteverino
Via di San Franceso a Ripa 151
(at Via Luciano Manara)
039/06/58 19 719
trasteverino@email.it

And the hangover continues: Testaccio Market in Rome

Mastroianni Brothers----->

Ciao tutti!

The weather is holding in Roma. So far we've had three days of sun. Hard to believe I'll be headed home soon! ...the day after tomorrow.

Yesterday after posting, I headed over to Testaccio, a working class / hipster clubbing neighborhood southeast of Trastevere, our home base. I had heard a rumor that the market there was first rate, and I was certainly not disappointed.

In contrast to the grand covered market in Florence, Testaccio's market looks a bit like a shantytown - albeit a shantytown filled with boistrous shopkeepers and produce that New Yorkers dream about, yet never can seem to find. I spent the first 15 minutes circulating and scoping out my opportunities (ED: i almost just typed poopertunities! lol). I had wanted to see the market, but really had no idea what I wanted to get, if anything.

The produce stands are magnificent. Several varieties of artichokes are piled high on the tables at this time of year. They look like bruise-colored flowers at the end of their long stalks. I see that the leaves are also for sale. Perhaps today I will investigate the preparation.

Citrus of all varieties is stacked over at the fruit booths, in vivid yellow and orange. The stems are attached, still, and look freshly plucked. The famous Sorrento lemons don't have to travel far to get to my table.

All this produce business is crowded in the center of the room. Along the walls, however, space is rented out to purveyors of all things meaty and delicious...and cheesy and delicious. I spy piles of tripe among the steaks and chops. A booth selling only horse figures promiently in my tour. Perhaps most memorable, though, is the Mastroianni Brothers' fish stall, which houses a dizzying assortment of fish, crustaceans, mollusks along with various un-identfieds. They've got a photo of the famous other brother or cousin or uncle Marcello Mastroianni taped to their sign in case any of us missed that connection. In front of the booth, they've stuck a pair of plastic lawn chairs. The brothers have marked each chair with one of their names. I am not sure if that is to keep them from being stolen or if it is intended to stake the territory, and make sure no one else rests their bum in the wrong place.

After my turn about the place, I finally choose a meat and cheese stall and decide on a picnic lunch, to be taken at the hotel. Tomatoes, two sheep's milk cheeses, some prosciutto and bresaola later, I am headed back out into the sunshine, content that I have found someplace special, and utterly different from anything I can experience back home.

This is my fifth time visiting Rome, and only the first time I can genuinely say I love it. Although Florence and Venice may be more beautiful as a whole, with antiquities packed in like artichokes in mah belleh, it's difficult to find corners where life is just happening, regardless of whether the Americani and Svedesi are ther dropping their coin. After all this time, and all the antiquities under my belt, It's been worth all the trouble and getting lost to have this wonderful lunch under my arm...and feel like I finally stepped out of the world and into someplace specifically and exclusively Roman.

See 172 (or so) photos on MY FLICKR PAGE

Still drunk, cracked. A "5 cent" tour of Rome.

*hic*...Hi from Rome!

We arrived with no problems yesterday...flights were wonderful, and thank you ancient city planners, Trastevere is easier to get to than anywhere else in town! A €5 train trip to the Trastevere stop on the (! impt !) local from Rome Fiumicino connects with a snazzy green tram that will drop you wherever you need to go on the route. We flew in at 8 am, and by 10 (after some serious dawdling at the airport's ATM) we were installed in our hotel and getting me cracked up on some delicious coffee. I never drink real coffee at home*, so when I indulge it really works.

First things first. I gathered up Glenn and Dad and hustled them over to Santa Maria in Trastevere, which sits snugly in the coner of the neighborhood's main square. Altough only a few hundre years old, much of the structure is made of parts pillaged from the baths of Carcalla - in another part of town. In fact, that happens a lot. The entire facade of the Colloseum was pockmarked by pickaxes -- the iron supports inserted into a variety of public structures in medeival years. That's why it looks so rugged. Anyhoo, Santa Maria in Trastevere is worth a look. It's the first church EVAHR to be dedicated to the virgin. THE virgin. The entire ceiling inside is either A) coffered gold leaf or B) gold mosaic work. OW my eyes! I lit a candle to thank lil' baby Jeebus for a great travel experience so far.

After dat, we walked across the Tiber (Tevere) to the Historic Center. (Centro Storico) to take a gander at the Pantheon. Dad met a nice couple from Georgia, USA inside. They looked snazzy in matchy red jackets. To reference a familiar theme, this temple to ancient gods (built somewhere around the year 100) used to be pagan and fun, but was converted to a christian basilica a bunch of hundred years ago. The original dome, an enginerring marvel, is as impressive as ever. At it's base it's something like 1,000,000,000 feet thick (ok maybe 21.3) and narrows gracefully toward the oculus in the ceiling. Oculus is foreign for hole. At the oculus, the roof is only a few feet think, and although it looks small, the opening is 20 feet across. BTW, yes, it's open to the elements.  You can be rained on through it, pooped on by a bird, and when the triple moons shine through it, with the crystal shard is replaced, the Dark Crystal will be whole once more. Once again our world will be fertile and...wait...sorry. wrong movie.

After that tour, we were about to crash and burn, so we hit Enoteca Corsi for lunch. It's right nearby. Dad had the famous Roman baccala (roasted, salted cod), while glenn had pasta e ceci (chickpea) soup followed by veal and taters. I had the soup as well, then chased it with an herb roasted fish and more taters. We had a half liter of house red, and I chased it all with a coffee. YUM! For all that, we only spent about €50, so it's a heck of a deal too. Though Americans were present, there weren't a ton, and no Texas accents.

Enoteca Corsi Via del Gesù 87. Info 06.6790821

After lunch, we took a jet lag nap, then went for another stroll around the Centro Storico, stopping at Campo dei Fiori (bustling at hapy hour, bustling market in the morning) and then just sat around trying to not to fall asleep before dinner. HARD.

Dinner we had at my old fave Da Enzo. We started with friend zucchini flowers (fiori di zucca) that had been stuffed with cheese, and the ever-present artichokes (carciofi). The artichokes are fried, but steamed first, so from stem to heart they are tender and flavorful. In fact, they are a flavor adventure! Each part tastes a little different, from the soft sweetness of the extremieits, to the crispy, burney olive oil crunch of the leaves. With a half liter of red, I shared a plate of ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. Glenn took a salad of lettuce, mater and arugula (i love it when people call it rocket). AFter that, Dad and Glen had involtini - rollds of slow cooked beef with tomatoes and tomato sauce, while I had coda di vaccinara - OXTAIL BABY! One of my goals this trip is to see how much I can stand to eat from the quinta quarta...the nasty bits...of various animals. I get grossed out pretty easily, but so far so good! All dat? ONLY €67! Dang.

Da Enzo: Via dei Vascellari 29, Trastevere, Tel. 06 581 83 55. read more here

I'll post again tomorrow if I can, but rest assured, I will be eating well, sleeping off wine buzz and remaining cracked out of coffee in continental style.

Revisiting Rome

<-------Gonna buy some spices at Campo dei Fiori ("field of flowers")

My trip to Rome this coming weekend will be, I believe, my fifth.

The first I was 21, (living in Florence) and remember nothing at all.

The second I was 24 and remember very little (except spending an entire, blissful day walking between ALL the major sites.)

The third was two years ago after a 9 year absence, with my friend Mary K. It was wonderful. Revelatory and magical. Sadly, I was dang tired, as Rome came at the end of a trip including Venice and Florence. Shoulda done it the other way round. Rome is crazy and fast like New York.

This time I will be with my father and his cousin. I think this will be the best yet...My Dad and Glenn are wonderful to travel with, and we are flying directly to Rome. Mary K and I flew to Milan, then took the train to Rome. The train is fun, but Milan for 12 hours is a bad idea unless you have a bevvy of minions and a limo.

When I get home I will spill all the details positive and negative. Last time around, I spent nearly the whole time wishing that I had a kitchen. You all know by now I just LOVE to cook. It's the purest torture to be in a country with so many wonderful culinary opportunities and no where to make them a reality! We have found ourselves a reasonably priced apartment with a kitchenette in my favorite neighborhood, Trastevere.

    Trastevere at night --------->

Trastevere doesn't qualify as "old town" in a city that houses ancient monuments that are thousands of years old. It has the feel of and old town, though, with it's twisted lanes and narrow vicolos (alleyways). At night, the neighborhood bustles like a market morning as street vendors line up with colorful wares, and Italians go out for their evening passeggiata.

I have never stopped longing for more of Da Enzo's olive-oil fried artichokes (carcofi fritti), so I am sure I will take Dad and Glenn for a round. Also, there is a pizza by the etto (1 etto = 100g) place right where you exit the Metropolitana (subway) at the Spanish Steps that sells incredible varieties of Rome's famous Pizza - shredded zucchini was my favorite last time. This time, I want to to something cwazy!
    Da Enzo:  Via dei Vascellari 29, Trastevere, Tel. 06 581 83 55. read more here

Mary K and I have the same taste in perfume, so she has asked me to return to the tiny, crowded Profumeria Selettiva to snag a bottle. Last time we each bought one. She purchased a floral Acqua di Parma and I bought Eau Fantiastique by Fragonard. Each time either of us smell the wonderful fragrance, it transports us to our Rome. It's a remarkable experience to be moved so completely in one sniff!
<-----Profumeria Selettiva 7: Via della Lungaretta 63, Trastevere 

Chakra Bar is another possibility. It's not the most unusual spot, but it remains mellow and relaxing while the rest of Trastevere buzzes. In 2006, we made the mistake of staying far out in the periferia (suburbs), so we needed something to do between happy hour and dinner, when we were at our most tie-tie. Sharing a bottle of Barolo fit the bill! Aside from yummy wines and a great atmosphere, Chakra also serves free cichetti (appetizers) during happy hour! The perfect shot of energy and alcohol before the evening passeggiata!
    Chakra Bar: Piazza San Rufina 13, Trastevere

Aside from a pilgrimage to see the Bernini Sculptures, I imagine there won't be much museum-ing. I have a  friend to have pizza with and a lot of exploring to do. I have a few things on my to-do list - nothing in stone of course. I'd like to exercise my dreams of touring to Italy by visiting some  music pubs in the student district (San Lorenzo). 

I am told that I am automatically part Jewish by being a New Yorker, so I'd like to explore Rome's rich Jewish history a bit. There is an arch in the Forum that depicts Roman warriors sacking an ancient synagogue. Not so pleasant, but very interesting! The old Ghetto is just across the Tiber from our apartment in Trastevere.
    Check it out. Sacking. ----------->

Other than these few musts, I will in all likelihood be found wandering almost aimlessly on my own, translating menus for my family, and sucking down as much wine and coffee as I can stand!

Wish me luck - it'll be hard work!

PS:
The Tiny Guide 2006 Podcasts about Rome:
http://tinyguide.typepad.com/home/2007/07/tg_006-getting-.html
http://tinyguide.typepad.com/home/2007/07/tg_007-food-in-.html
http://tinyguide.typepad.com/home/2007/07/tg_008-rome-lil.html

 

TG_009: A conversation with my travel partner, Mary K

I finally sit down with my friend Mary K to recap our trip to Italy together. Hers is a valuable perspective!

LINK TO SHOW

TG_008: Rome! Lil' details in the largest of places

Even in the most heavily touristed areas, you will still find interesting details that show you something different and. The Coliseum is never just the coliseum! There are only 3 ways to pose at the Bocca della Verita'!

-Karaoke was a no-go!
-Bocca della Verita' poses: there are only 3, as I said
-Coliseum Gladiators: varying quality of costumes
-Porta Portese Flea Market: a rainbow of faces
-Profumeria Selettiva 7 the wonders of perfume souveniers
       Via della Lungaretta 63
-The Sistine Chapel is still worth it.
-St. Peter's Basilica

206-333-1604 Call the comment line!

LINK TO ENHANCED PODCAST
LINK TO MP3 PODCAST (not so much fun)

TG_007: Food in Rome is easy

Lessons for eating in Rome. Music by Deidre Rodman (Markets)

1) Pizza Bianca
2) Pizza Anywhere
3) Happy Hour     Chakra Bar    
Piazza San Rufina 13     Trastevere, Rome
4) Da Enzo      (go by and make a reservation)     
Via dei Vascellari 29      Trastevere, Rome

TG_006: Getting around Rome

A view from the Villa Borghese Park, above Piazza del Popolo, at the head of Via del Corso All links can be reached also through the enhanced podcasts.

-Music by Gianluca Grignani
-City Secrets Rome - a great book!
-Palimpsest: "A manuscript, typically of papyrus or parchment, that has been written on more than once, with the earlier writing incompletely erased and often legible." (Dictionary.com)
-Eurostar to Rome
-Patty's Rooms: a pickup at the station and a new location in Panama. http://www.pattyscasitas.com/
-Metropolitana, Busses and Trams: One-week tickets at the Tabaccaio
-Argentina & Cats: TIM & Feltrinelli
-Italian language grew in Pockets
-The Dentures or the Wedding Cake (Piazzale Vittorio Emmanuele)
-Via del Corso -Villa Borghese bike rentals
-Alone with the sculptures at Galleria Borghese
-Letters and comments. The smell of Europe!

LINK TO SHOW